|
|
Live from Afghanistan - a journey coming to an end
Agu 22, 2004 14: 07 EST
Hannah and her team bumps back down the Wakhan valley, past the Great Pamirs and the junction of the Wakhan and Pamir rivers and back onto the true Oxus or Amu Darya as it has become known in later years.
Her North Afghanistan trek to the foot of river Oxus is about to end, and the South Pole is up next.
Pioneer of Contact 3.0 self publishing positioning system
But she's still posting extensive dispatches from her ride back to "civilization." That's good practice for the polar trek, where Hannah again will use her Contact 3.0 setup for updates. Check her positions in Contact Geo on her site. Hannah is actually pioneering this awesome new feature of Contact expedition technology - self publishing positions from her trek straight to map!
Kindness and tiny Apricots
And here goes her latest reports from North Afghanistan: "As we pass by, the pleasant Wakis smile and nod to us and if we pause, they stop what they are doing and share whatever they have with us.
One tears up an armful of pea plants from his field and pushes them in through the window for us to pick off the sweet pods and another brings a basket of tiny apricots from window to window for us to take handfuls. I am going to miss these generous and open people.
Least favorite town, an Opium hub
All to soon though we are approaching my least favorite town, Baharak, and entering the outskirts we see the women are fully veiled once more, the first we have seen since leaving here over a week ago.
Dr Alex told us that this town has a particularly odd atmosphere because it is the opium centre of the whole area, not only from a dealing point of view but from an addiction angle also. Raymond in particular is keen that there should not be a repeat of last time's performance and speaks for the whole group when he says we are not to be left alone and I promise Philippa not to start any fights this time also.
Gawping looks of men
As it happens the stop is uneventful. Moobin and Haji usher us into an upstairs teahouse, where we are given a separate room away from the gawping looks of the towns men. And we are brought a meal of kebabs and rice and apples and melon.
I find the room rather airless and claustrophobic after a week of being out in the mountains, and a strong odour of rotting meat makes me start to feel severely faint towards the end of the meal. Nevertheless things could be worse and we don't stay long.
An inappropriate scene
Haji makes a thoroughly rude and inappropriate scene of demanding money from Tom to pay at the end of the meal and I can see Tom struggling to keep his temper although he responds impeccably. We are all starting to become a little suspicious of Haji's financial integrity, but have no way of establishing what is going on, he certainly becomes very uncomfortable when pressed on the subject of money.
After a very long and hot day of in-car confinement we eventually reach the shanty town streets of Faiserbad. We squeeze the cars in through the chaotic mess of crowds and wooden huts all cramped together on the heaving mud streets of the city centre and eventually drop down to the relative peace of the river's edge and the long steps going up to the hotel.
Supper of fish and chips, kind of
There are some other guests staying in the hotel this time and we have to squash in and double up. I do get a room to myself, but the drawback is that there is no furniture in it. Moobin assures me that they will find a bed somewhere, and not to worry. I'm not worried, I'm happy to sleep on the floor if necessary, it's the cold but regardless wonderful shower I am excited about.
Gradually we all wash and settle and over the course of the evening a headboard appears, then a mattress and finally a whole bed is assembled in my room. Supper is a welcome mix of lamb knuckles and whole fried fish with fresh tomatoes and chips. Tom has been saying for days that he wants fish and chips and although I don't think this is quite what he had in mind, I do think it is the universe trying to do its best for him, goodness knows, he deserves it."
Hannah McKeand travels in Northern Afghanistan in search of the source of the River Oxus. After Afghanistan, Hannah will go for the South Pole this fall, and will then finish up the trifecta by hopefully competing in an around the world sailing race. Hannah uses Contact 3.0 for her updates.
Live Image of River valley at Boroghil, transmitted by Contact 3.0, courtesy of Hannah McKeand
|
|
Feature Stories |
|
Latest News |
more news |
 |
North Pole Russia: Borneo Base up and running
Full Story
|
 |
North Pole Russia: It's over - all teams evacuated!
Full Story
|
 |
Russian Polar Borneo Station status update
Full Story
|
 |
The rules of Adventure
Full Story
|
 |
Russian frontier department angered by Cerpolex
Full Story
|
 |
North Pole teams on the ice - no rescue agreement with Borneo
Full Story
|
|
|
The battle for the North Pole - full story
Full Story
|
|
|
| OneWorld expedition: It's over Jun 3, 2005 | | Vancouver to Moscow - 1 year anniversary! Jun 2, 2005 | | Arctic wrap-up: The Single ski Weight Watchers Greenland program Jun 1, 2005 | | Arctic wrap-up: Rain and world record May 31, 2005 | | ExplorersWeb Week in Review May 30, 2005 | | 12 year old doing well on Greenland ice cap crossing May 27, 2005 | | Vagabond update - Polar bears, 200 candles and ice melting in Inglefieldbukta May 26, 2005 | | Arctic wrap-up: Polar hygiene, and Napoleon on ice May 26, 2005 | | Contact GEO hits Greenland May 25, 2005 | | Iridium: "Invalid battery - matches found, 0" May 24, 2005 |
| | Arctic wrap-up: Adventure family kites 162 km, reaches halfway point May 23, 2005 |
|
|
|
|
2004
BEST of EXPLORERSWEB
|
|
|
|
