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Spaniards on Vinson debrief: New routes and names
Jan 26, 2005 03: 39 EST
Previously published Jan 19, 2005
Remember Chus (María Jesús) Lago – the Spanish female snow Leopard - and Miguel Angel who were off for some interesting climbs at Antarctica?
Back in Spain the climbers report to have reached all their goals -and some! To ensure a clear record, Miguel Angel Vidal has sent a written debrief to ExplorersWeb and to American Alpine Journal. He also sent a copy to Damien Gildea, who has become an unofficial chronicler of the new routes and climbs taking place in the area and over the past two months accomplished quite a few first ascents there himself.
This is Miguel Angel’s summary of the expedition:
“On December 16, 2004 we flew from Spain to Punta Arenas (Chile). December 20 we took a cargo plane to Antarctica, landing in Patriot Hills 4,5 hours later.”
“December 21 a Twin Otter took us to Vinson Base camp, 2.200m high on the Branscomb Glacier. One day later we set our C1 (2700m.) at the foot of the West Face of Vinson.”
“On December 23 we attempted a new route on Vinson West face, but our backpacks were too heavy and our progression too slow. After climbing 600m, we decided to change our strategy.”
Main summit of Vinson
“The next day we climbed the normal route of Vinson up to C2, where we set a tent at 3.700 ms, leaving there mattresses, a sleeping bag, food and gas. It was still early and we felt strong, so we decided to go for the summit that same day. As we gained height, the wind picked up. I had not enough warm clothes on and started getting really cold. To avoid the risk of suffering frostbite, I decided to turn back under the summit pyramid.”
“Maria Jesús (Chus) Lago kept on climbing alone, reaching the summit at 3:00 am on December 25. It was a fine way to celebrate: Christmas and her 40th birthday. She also became the first Spanish woman to climb Vinson. She climbed in cold temperatures, down to –30º C, and strong wind with gusts of 40 km/h. The wind chill occasionally reached – 60º C.”
Miguel Angel: Jaca Peak SE face
“On December 26, Chus was back in C1 and decided to take a break and rest. Meanwhile, I moved to the SW ridge of Mt. Shinn to explore a possible route there. Afterwards I traversed to Jaca Peak (3.540 m) and climbed it following a straight line up to the summit through the SE face. Jaca Peak was first climbed in 1994 by a Spanish team, consisting of a group of the Military High Mountain patrol and the ‘Al Filo de lo Imposible’ TV documentary team.”
Miguel and Chus: Galfrío route to Vinson West
“On December 27 we climbed together a new route on the southern edge of Vinson West’s rocky wall. It took us eight hours to climb 1000 vertical meters on a rock spur. We named the new route ‘Galfrío’ as a tribute to the expedition sponsor. The route includes some difficulties on ice and mixed terrain up to IV (UIAA graduation) and 45 to 55º steep slopes. The last 200 meters offered the most difficult section, as the climb progressed on very hard blue ice and unstable snow.”
Miguel Angel climbs to ‘Punta Galicia’
“On December 28, I climbed the 4 km-long Branscomb ridge, past the point where it joins the new Galfrío route, up to the main summit of that ridge. The snowy peak had no registered name, so we dubbed it ‘Punta Galicia’ (Galicia Point). It is 4.557 meters high. Galicia is the region in Northwestern Spain where Chus was born. This is the third ‘Spanish’ peak on Vinson Massif, after Monte España (Mt. Spain) – 4.860 m.; Pico Príncipe de Asturias (Prince of Asturias Peak) – 4.680 m.; and Jaca Peak– 3.540 m.”
“Next I ascended Mount Vinson (4.897 m.)”
Miguel Angel: Friendship Banana Gully to Branscomb ridge
Miguel Angel had yet time enough to open another new route on December 31. “I climbed a new route following an unmistakable banana-shaped couloir that crosses Vinson West face. Therefore, I named the new itinerary “Friendship Banana Gully”. It took me 8,5 hours to climb 1700 vertical meters from the foot of the wall to the Branscomb ridge, at 4400 meters. “
“The new route follows 50 to 55º sep slopes on alternatively ‘crusted’ and loose snow, along with some rock outcrops. There were some mixed sections up to IV degree. I found no ice at all, just some patches of hard snow.”
On January 4 the two climbers flew back to Patriot Hills and two days later they left for South America.
Chus Lago was the first Spanish female climber to summit Everest without O2, although she used it during the descent. She also summited Cho Oyu and attempted Annapurna. She is the fist Spanish lady 'Snow Leopard', which took her three years to accomplish.
Miguel Angel Vidal has Spanish first summits on Shisha Pangma and the French-Argentinean route on Fitzroy. Miguel has attempted Everest twice.
Images, courtesy of the team, show: 1-Both new routes seen from Jaca peak. 2- Galfrío route from ‘Punta Galicia’. 3- Galfrío Route and Punta Galicia. 4- Jaca peak from Galfrío route. 5- New Spanish routes on Vinson Massif.
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